Saturday, December 29, 2007

Florence, Italy

Orientation - Train ticket office is open 7-19 – very walkable city – expensive taxis (use Radio Taxi) -

HOTELS:

  • JK Place - Piazza S.M. Novella, 7, Florence, 50123 - +39-055-2645181 – one of the better hotels we stayed at in Italy. Service was first class and the rooms, despite small size were outstanding. Seating lounges on ground floor make it feel like you are in a livign room. Excellent location - close to train station, but away from crowds. DIRECTIONS: located 6 mins on foot from Santa Maria Novella train station...get out from the main exit (nearby the pharmacy) and look right...you will see the back of a church...go towards the church crossing the square (mind the cars) and take the Via degli Avelli ( pedestrian area ). Walk for 1 minute and look left, we are next to the hotel Roma.
  • Riva Lofts - hotel was in the "outskirts of town" which kept us away. Staff was extremely responsive over internet inquiries and the website looks great.

ATTRACTIONS:

  • These links and phone numbers can help with reservations. http://www.weekendafirenze.it/ or http://www.florenceart.it/ 055-294-883
  • Uffizi (Tu-Sa 8:15-19) advanced reservations (see above). Large museum and you'll see: Botticelli, da Vinci, Michaelangelo and Raphael to name a few.
  • Galleria dell Academia – David, Tu-Su, 8:15-19, 7E (see above). Go early and make a reservation to avoid lines.
  • Piazza della Signoria - main square, check out sculptures next to Uffizi
  • Baptistery (San Giovanni) – M-Sa, 12-19, 4E - make sure to look at the door facing Duomo
  • Bargello National Museum – 8:15-13:50 (M-F), 8:15-18 (Sa), 4E - sculptures are amazing
  • Basicila San Lorenzo – M-Sa (10-17:30), free
  • Basilica Santa Maria Novella – church (M-Th 9-17, F & Su 13-17) 3E, cloisters (closed F, 8-14), 3E
  • Duomo – museum (M-Sa 9-19:30), 6E – catherdral (Th or Sa, 10-15:30), free - climb the tower, but go early as it is very tight space walking around.
  • Ponte Vecchio bridge - go early to avoid crowds
  • Medici Chapels – (M-Sa 8:15-17), 6E
  • Palazzo Pitti (Boboli Gardens) – Daily 8:30-1:30 5E, Gardens 9-17:45
  • Piazza Michaelangelo – great overlook of Florence and sunsets
  • Santa Croce -
  • San Marco – (T-F no M, 8:30-13:50 – S&S, 8:15-19) 6E - don’t just go in the church, go through the museum that is off to the right of the church. There is an upstairs part to the museum that are the old monks quarters; you can walk around and see frescoes in all the rooms where the monks lived
  • Fort Belevedere - UNESCO World Heritage Sight. Close to Boboli Gardens.

FOOD:

  • Gelato – pay for gelato first, picking size. Hand receipt to scooper and pick your flavor. Banana color (if grey, likely with fresh fruit). Steel bins (vs plastic) usually means homemade. Vivoli & Gelateria dei Neri (Via Dei Neri) are recommended.
  • Buca Mario - recommendation from JK Place. Can get noisy, but very solid cuisine and excellent service.
  • Garga - Via del Moro - have the garga salad and the cheesecake - a great choice.
  • Quattro Leone (lunch or dinner) - Piazza della Passera/Via Toscanella - have the mozzarella di buffola e tomato salad and fiocchetti (sp?) with pears and asparagus
  • Mariano (quick lunch) - Via Parione, 19 (it is in a basement)
  • Procacci (afternoon snack) - Via Tornabuoni
  • Giacosa (breakfast/quick lunch) - Via della Spada, part of Cavalli off of Via Tornabuoni. Order the Pomodoro Soup. They also have wifi here.
  • Il Latini - rec from a friend
  • La Giostra (dinner, classic tuscan cuisine) near the duomo.
  • Osteria Santo Spirito (lunch or dinner) - Piazza Santo Spirito
  • Aqua al Due - highly recommended
  • Da Pennello – address: Via Dante Alighieri - great food and service
  • Tratorria da Benvenuto – V. dei Neri, 47r, squid risotto

Shopping

  • The Mall - http://www.outlet-firenze.com/ - The Mall is one of the best outlets outside of Florence - it's approximately 45 minutes outside of Florence in a town called Leccio. This is truly an outlet mall where you have last seasons' fashions and accessories at 40% (or more) less than retail stores. There are also classic pieces that can be found at the stores. The stores include: Gucci, Tod's, Armani, AX Jeans, Ferragamo, Fendi, Burberry, Balenciega, etc. To get there, you can choose one of 4 options: (1) Caftours.com (2) SITA bus from the main bus station in Florence provides scheduled times to/from the Mall (cost: 4-Euro pp each way) (3) Special bus info@design-management.it (cost: 25-Euros pp, minimum 2 pp) (4) take train to Rignano Sull' Arno and then, a taxi to the Mall
  • Via Tornabuoni is the main shopping area and all the streets near by. For fun handbags that are inexpensive go to Temporary Store - Via della Vigna Nuova (near Via Tornabuoni).
  • Luisa Via Roma (near the Piazza del Duomo).
  • Piazza D. Mercato Centrale – open air market close no too far from the Duomo, Piazza della Repubblica

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Venice, Italy

ORIENTATION: make sure to arrive to Santa Maria Lucia station, not the first Venice stop (Maestre). Typically you'll want to use the Vaparetto (water bus run by ACTV - they have 1 and 3 day tickets 10E, 22E) or your legs to get around. Water taxis and gondolas are extremely expensive and likely to leave you frustrated. Walking can be very confusing, but yellow signs help with famous sights. Vaporetto is the way to go for transports (ACTV is the company). Water Taxi is about 60E. Gondola very expensive negiotiate beforehand – 100E/HR is about the rate. Trahetti (ferry).

Hotels:

Novecento - San Marco, 2683/84, 30124 VENEZIA - 041 2413765 - This is a great little boutique hotel. Old antique furnishing, but modern bathrooms, etc. Very clean and a great location (5 min walk from San Marco Square). Extremely quiet and a great staff. Directions: Take Vaparetto Line 1 getting off at Santa Maria Del Giglio (or Giglio). Take the walkway straight ahead to the square. Just before you get to the church straight ahead, take the stairs to the left. Veer to the right and continue up the stairs. Follow to the next courtyard. Novecento is on the far walkway on the lefthand side across the walkway. http://www.novecento.biz/dynalay.asp?PAGINA=45&navigazione_principale=2

La Calcina - recommended from a travel magazine under "cheap weekends"

Attractions – if you are really into sightseeing, then get a Chorus Pass for all churches in Venezia

  • St. Marks Square – sunrise is supposed to be beautiful in the square. Watch in amazement as tourists feed pigeons climbing all over them.
  • Ca d Oro – M (8-14), others 8:15-19:15, 5E – Cannaregio district -
  • Campinile di San Marco – 9:30-16:15, 6E great views, you'll go up via the elevator
  • Ca Rezzonico – 10-17 (no Tues), 6.5E - 19th century Venetian life
  • Collezion Guggenhiem – 10-18 (no Tues), 10E – in the Dorsoduro area
  • San Marco– (10-16:30), Sun (14-16) 2-6E
  • Doge's Palace & Bridge of Sighs – (9-17), 11E – staircase worthwhile – in the San Marco area - try the secret itineraries tour
  • Gall Dell Accademia - (M 8-14, 8-19 other) 6.5E – in the Dorsoduro area - largest collection of Venetian art in the world.
  • Musueo Civico Corner (9-5), 11E
  • Scuola di Schiavoni (no M, 10-12:30 & 15-18), 3E – Castello district
  • Scuola di San Rocco (only S or M), 7:30-12:30 (& 2-4 Sun), 6E – in the San Polo area
  • Trip to Pauda? University town
  • Grand Canal - #1, 4 and 82 have great nighttime façade views
  • Churches – San Zaccaria 10-12,16-18 free
  • Islands – Lido (good beach), Murano (known for glass),

Food

  • al Paradiso Ristorante - excellent spot near the Rialto (but off the tourist stops). Closest Vaparetto stop is Papadopoli. Excellent seafood/pasta. Calle de Paradiso
  • Il Prato - Calle de Ostreghe - http://www.ilpratovenezia.com/ - looks like they also have a Las Vegas restaurant
  • Al Ponte di Rialto- great pizza (by the slice), off the Grand Canal (SW of the Rialto Bridge). Grab a slice and go!
  • Café Florian - famous spot, but you'll pay for the history!
  • Quaddry’s
  • Nuovo Galeon - Venetian cuisine
  • Harry’s (famous Hemingway bar) - world famous bellinis
  • La Colombina - just off Strada Nuova in Cannaregio
  • Imagina - spritz hour bar recommended from cheap travel magazine
  • Cantina do Spade (cicchetti)
  • Le Bistrot de Venise, Gelateria Nico

Shopping

  • Pauly & Co. - Venetian Glass
  • Venini - Venitian Glass
  • Rivoaltus Legatoria - leather journals sold on Rialto Bridge
  • Rialto - bridge and market area has local merchants

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Milan, Italy

Orientation – rings around the city – very walkable – tram, bus or metro goes from central station to town center. Milan is shaped like a bullseye – inner circle has 4 squares: Piazza del Duomo, Castello, Cordusio, San Babila. Behind train station it can be a little shady at night. If you are confident that you know where to go then walk from there. The metro is very safe and will run about 1 Euro/ride. If not catch a taxi at the stand - follow signs.

Hotels:

  • Jolly Hotel Milano President - Largo Augusto, 10, Milan - +39 02 77461 central location (close to Duomo). At the end of 2007 they were redoing rooms. Clean and reliable, but nothing too fancy. Lobby area is a nice sitting area. Directions - By train: From the central station, take the underground (yellow line) until the Missori stop. Alternatively you can catch bus 60 and get off at the Vittoria-Augusto stop. It´s also possible to catch a taxi
  • Hotel Principie - came highly recommended from a high end travel agent. About a 5-10 minute walk towards town center from the Milano Central train station.
  • 3 Rooms - on the Corso Como, tucked back in a courtyard
  • Carlton Hotel Baglioni - travel mag recommendation

Attractions

  • La Scala Opera – Recently renovated. Tickets sold in the Duomo Metro station.
  • Duomo – cathedral (7-19, free) and roof (9-16:30, 6E) – third largest church in the world, roof views of alps
  • Last Supper – in the Santa Maria Dell Grazie, reservations DEFINITELY required (8-19, 7E + res fee) - as soon as you know your going to Milan book this reservation.
  • Ambriosiana – 10-17:30, 7.5E – check out statue filled courtyard
  • Brera Picture Gallery – 8:30-19, 5E
  • Basilica Di Sant’Amrbogio – Medieval bldg. – M-Sa (7-12, 14:30-19) & Su (7:15-13, 15-20) free, chapel different hrs
  • Basilica Di Sant Eustorgio – old frescoes – basilica (free) and capella (6E) 8:30-12, 15:30-18, Su 10-18:30
  • Museo Bagatti on Via Santo Spirito (off of Montenepoleone) it is the house the eponymous family lived in
  • Sforza Castle - north part of city at the beginning of the park

Food

  • Al Porto – guide book rec - seafood
  • Cracco Peck - guide book rec "very gourmet"-
  • Cafés: Berlin Café, Botega Caffe Cocao (hot chocolate) & Café Cova
  • Bagutta - the murals are all from famous painters (via bagutta-parallel street to montenapoleone) -
  • Torre di Pisa - rec for lunch in Brera
  • Da Giacomo - outstanding. fried zucchini blossoms come recommeneded.
  • La Langhe (on Corso Como)
  • La Briciola-in Brera
  • Quatro Cento (outside of the center of Milan, but a very cool restaurant)
  • Trattoria Milanese - rec from a friend
  • Bulgari hotel - good drink spot
  • Bice - Via Borgospesso - travel mag rec.
  • Nobu - travel mag rec for a drink - Via Pisoni
  • DO NOT EAT at Bar Si (Galleria V Emanuele II). Very high priced drinks and we saw locals screaming at the staff here for outrageous prices.

Shopping – Saldi (means sales, famous in Jan.), blochista (means outlets) -

  • Via Montenapoleone – all desinger shops and side streets have boutiques
  • Golden Triangle, Corso de Beunos Aires (affordable), Piazza Oberdan (cheap),
  • Brera (bargains) - cool neighborhood
  • Vias: Solferron, Madonnia, Fiori Chiari, Monte Napoleon, Satn Andrea, Torino - Corso di Porta Ticinese,
  • Outlets: Il Salvagente and Gruppo Italia Grandi Firme
  • Bargains: Via Fauce & Viale Papina
  • 10 Corso Como - (the name of the Shop and the street it is on-it's tucked away in a courtyard- great store (upstairs there is an art exhibit, music and books) good restaurant recommended for lunch. Open on Sundays.
  • Mr. N - unique gifts
  • Galleria V Emanuele II - amazing architecture and a few designer shops - near Duomo and La Scala.
  • Marni's flagship - (via Spiga), they also have an outlet (Via Tajani Filippo)
  • Il Salvagente - Via Fratelli Bronzetti -

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Paris, France

Money

  • euro is currency, Exchange – 146 E = 100USD, 100 E = $68 (Dec 2007)
  • Tipping:, service is usually included (service compris) but leave small change for good service – if no service included tip 15-20%, 12-15% for cabs, 1E for each bag at hotels & 1E/day for maid, when in doubt tip (cloak rooms, WCs)
Transportation
  • Taxis – 12-15 % tip. Bags in trunk may be extra. Very difficult in rush hour
  • Metro – can by a block of tickets 10, cheapest way to go (called a carnet)
Orientation - quadrant system, called arrondissements. Right bank is north of the river, left is south.

Lodging:
  • Edouard VII - nice hotel with great service. Very close to the Opera House. Excellent location for seeing sights in Paris.
  • Hotel de Grandes Ecoles - 75 rue Cardinal Lemoine - travel article rec
  • Meurice - 228 rue de rivoli - location right by the Louvre
Attractions
  • Versailles – Chateau 1 November - 31 March, 9am to 5.30pm, last admission: 5pm – CLOSED M; The Marie-Antoinette's Estate and the Grand Trianon 12-530, about 7-16E, 25E total pass, By train: the nearest station is Versailles Rive Gauche on Line C of the RER; the Palace is an 8-minute walk away.
  • Latin Quarter – getting more touristy - has Sorbonne University in it – 5th Arr,
  • NotreDame – 745-19 daily (7.5E), towers 10-1730, treasury 930-6 M-F (3E), crypt 10-6 (closed M) free
  • Ste Chappelle – near Notre Dame, 9-5 daily, cost with Concierge and one other building
  • 5th Q – Sorbonne and Pantheon 10-1830
  • Eifell – 930-2300, (3-11E)
  • Arc de Triumph – view at top 10-2230 (8E)
  • Catacombs – closed M, 10-16, (5E)
  • Louvre – closed Sun & Tues, open 9-6 (8.5E)
  • Musee d Orsay – closed Sun & Mon, 9:30-6 (7E)·
Food –
  • Resa au Drouant - 16-18 Gaillon - relatively new restaurant - excellent tastes here with superb service. Very close to the Opera House.
  • L'Astrance - recommended in travel articles, closed Sundays
  • Le Colimacon - good food, poor service
  • Angelina - 226 Rue de Rivoli 1st Arr - great Parisian breakfast - also a location in the 17th
  • Allard (reserve rec for lunch) – Left Bank – French bistro;
  • Au Boeuf Couronne ( off the beaten path) 8 rue laplace;
  • Le Meruice – prix fixe 2 michelin chefs – 228 rue de rivoli ;
  • La Petite Hostelleri – 35 rue de la harpe – mussels are good;
  • Bar Hemingway, hotel ritz, 15 place Vendome
  • 1st/2nd – Le Carre Blanc. Les Noves de Jeannette;
  • 7th/8th – Mood (japan –fusion);
  • Berthillion and Amorino for desserts;
  • Brasserie Balzar – 49 rue des ecoles

  • Cafes
    • Delicabar (26–38 Rue de Sèvres, 7th) sits in dept store;
    • Café du Marche 66, Rue Curial;
    • L’Assiette 181, Rue du Château 75014;
  • Bakeries -
    • http://www.leboulangerdemonge.com/ - 123 Rue Monge – 5th – closed M;
    • Maison Kayser -8, rue Monge V - 14 rue Monge - 87, rue d'Assas Vie - 79, rue du Commerce XVe - 49, rue Linois XVe - 87, Rue Didot XIVe;
    • Poilane;
    • Maison Gosselin - Rue de Verrüe St Vaast La Hougue;
    • GANA CHAUD. - 226, rue des Pyrénnées;
    • LE MOULIN DE LA VIERGE;
    • Pain d’epis - 63 avenue Bosquet – VIIème;
    • Ma Bourgogne – Place des Vosges - order the hot chocolate
SHOPPING








  • Sunday flea market – March eau puces – café nearby;
  • Le Louvre des Anitquaries – antiques near Louvre;
  • Viaduc des Artes – 12th district, collection of artists and crafts;
  • Baccarat, Lalique, L Tuile a Loup (5th) pottery and crafts, Au Printemps, Anna Lowe, Fauchon, Catherine
  • Camille Fournet - boutique
  • L'Eclaireur - 10, rue herold, boutique
  • Colette - 213 rue saint honore
  • Ornements - jewelery rec from travel magazine - 96 rue de grenelle
  • Loxwood - boutique fashion - 14 rud du Cherche Midi
ARTICLES OF INTEREST:

Recommendations: Restaurants The Top 10 Places to Eat (Very Expensive)
  • · 1. Lucas Carton - 9 place de la Madeleine, Paris 8th - métro: Madeleine
  • · 2. L'Ambroisie - 9 place des Vosges, Paris 4th - métro: Saint-Paul
  • · 3. Alain Ducasse - 59 av. R. Poincaré, Paris 16th - métro: Victor Hugo
  • · 4. La Tour d'Argent - 17 quai de Tournelle, Paris 5th - métro: Cardinal-Lemoine
  • · 5. Les Ambassadeurs (Hôtel de Crillon) - 10 place de la Concorde, 8th - métro: Concorde
  • · 6. Cercle Ledoyen - Carré des Champs-Elysées, 8th - métro: Concorde o Champs-Elysées
  • · 7. Taillevent - 15 rue Lamennais, Paris 8th - métro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
  • · 8. Guy Savoy - 18 rue Troyon, Paris 17th - métro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
  • · 9. Le Grand Véfour - 17 rue de Beaujolais, Paris 1st - métro: Palais-Royal
  • · 10. L'Arpège - 84 rue de Varenne, Paris 7th - métro: Varenne
· The Top 10 Places to Eat (Inexpensive)
  • · 1. Chez Clément - 6 addresses in Paris, including: 47 av. de Wagram, Paris 17th - métro: Ternes or 123 av des Champs-Elysées, Paris 8th - métro: George V
  • · 2. Restaurant des Beaux-Arts - 11 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6th - métro: St-Germain-des-Prés
  • · 3. Les Noces de Jeannette - 14 rue Favart, Paris 2nd - métro: Richelieu-Drouot
  • · 4. Le Patio Provençal - 116 rue des Dames, Paris 17th - métro: Villiers
  • · 5. Osteria del Passe-partout - 20 rue de l'Hirondelle, Paris 6th - métro: St-Michel
  • · 7. Dame tartine - 2 rue Brisemiche, Paris 4th - métro: Hôtel-de-Ville or Les Halles
  • · 8. Lescure - 7 rue de Mondovi, Paris 1st - métro: Concorde
  • · 9. Chartier - 7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, Paris 9th - métro: Rue Montmartre

The Top 10 Restaurants with a View
  • · 1. La Tour d'Argent - 17 quai de Tournelle, Paris 5th - métro: Cardinal-Lemoine A very famous address with the best view of Notre-Dame.
  • · 2. Jules Verne - Tour Eiffel (second floor)
  • · 3. La Maison Blanche - 15 av. Montaigne, Paris 8th - métro: Alma Marceau From the rooftop of the Theâtre des Champs-Elysées, nice view over the Seine and the capital.
  • · 6. Altitude 95 - Tour Eiffel (1st floor), Good address, less expensive than the Jules Verne
  • · 7. Morot-Gaudry 6 rue de la Cavalerie, Paris 15th - métro: La Motte-Picquet
  • · 8. Toupary - Samaritaine (5th floor) - 2 quai du Louvre, Paris 1st - métro: Pont-Neuf
  • ·
Rick Steves - http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/france/parisitin.htm

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Prague, Czech Republic

MONEY:

  • Kroner is currency
  • Exchange – 18Ckr = 1USD, 1 CKr = $0.05 - $100 = 1800 CKr as of Nov 2007
  • Tipping: round up to the nearest few crowns, about 10% for rest at fancier spots, 10% for cabs, not necessary for hotels, a little bit in hotels is ok
TRANSPORTATION:
  • Taxis –10 % tip. Reserve in advance for airport and negotiate beforehand. AAA Taxi - 14 0 14/ 2211 0 2211/ 729 33 11 33 - dispatchers speak English
  • Walking around town is very easy and recommended
Orientation:

Lodging:
Attractions
  • Prague Castle – Prazsky Hrad: St. Vitus Cathedral, Royal Palace, several other attractions on the hill. Grounds are free. Castle open 9-4, gardens closed
  • Jewish Museum – in Jewish Quarter, 9-4:30, 300 Ckr. – Maisel Synagogue, Old Jewish Cemetary, Old New Synagogue – nJosefov – closed Sat.
  • Charles Bridge
  • Old Town Square – Astronomical Clock 8to8 on the hour, Wenceslas Square, Tyn Church 10-13, 15-17Karlstejn Castle – 18 mi south
Food - pork, dumplings, cabbage and beer are local fares. Make sure to ask before you eat what is on table. Restaurants will often charge for bread, nuts, etc on table. Always check bill carefully. Closer to center of town will be more expensive
  • Bohemia Bagel - run by an expat - if you are looking for some familiar food this is your spot. Grab a bagel or sandwich for breakfast or lunch. Great cheesesteak.
  • The Prague Post recently ran a Top Ten Restaurant Guide.
  • Café Restaurant Louvre – coffee, cheap meal – meets and fish are better here
  • Creperie Cafe Gallery Rest. – French, value, foot of Charles Bridge
  • Hergetova Cihelna – good spot with great view, pizza
  • Ponte – international
  • Nostress - Asian fusion - great restaurant in cool area
  • Klub architektu – 12th cent cellar with Czech food,
  • Jachymka – big meat spot, Restaurace u Parlamentu – business lunch spot, Velryba – art gallery with food
  • Il Primo - Italian spot near the Jewish quarter - Elisky Krasnohorske 1, Praha 1 +420 222 320 734
  • Bakeshop Praha - good local bakery /deli . Easy spot for take away or sit down.
  • Cafes – Kavarna Slavia, Milena, Obecni dum, Dahab, Rybka, Ebel
  • Pubs – Do Not wave for service, put a cardboard coster in front of you that you want a mug – U Fleku (famous beer hall), U Zlateho tygra, Vinarna U Sudu – cellars, Duende
Shopping – porcelain, glass, clothes
  • Moser – glass and crystal – Na Prikope 12 or Male nam 11. 10-8 M-F, 10-7 S-
  • Celetna Crystal – Celetna 15, Cristallino - Celetna 12 two stores with glass, crafts
  • Manufaktura - great unique toys and crafts - several stores throughout town.
  • Local Art - check out Galerie chez Annamarie - tucked in a courtyard at Mostecka 14, this is worth a stroll through
Havelsky trk – Havelska ulice, open air market M-F 7-6 local mkt

For some additional information click here.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

Krakow, Poland

Money – zloty is currency with an exchange – 2.47 PLZ = 1USD, 1PLZ = $0.40 - $100 = 250 as of Nov/Dec 2007. Tipping: about 10% (or lower for rest), 5% for cabs, not necessary for hotels

Transportation

  • Taxis – should cost 50-60 zt to downtown. Cheaper to call one in town, then hail on street. 5% tip.
  • Very easy to get around by foot
Orientation - Grab a Krakow in Your Pocket Guide (free) from your hotel. That will give the most update info on opening times, locations, activities/festivals, etc.

Lodging: Sheraton - ul. Powisle 7, 31-101 Krakow - great location right on the river. Everything is walkable from here.

Attractions – call/verify any hours of openings. Very common to change.
  • Wawel Castle – 9:30-3, Wawel Cathedral – Sigismunds Bell – great view on church tower 9-5:15, grounds open 6-20,
  • Kazimierz – Jewish quarter, artists and shops throughout
  • Planty – scenic park circling city - great on a snowy day or clear day
  • Cloth Hall – souvenirs, polish art – admission
  • St. Mary’s Church – worlds oldest Gothic altarpiece 9-11:30, 1-5:30 also tower admission
  • Collegium Maius/Jagiellonian U – 3rd oldest u in Europe, English tour at 1
  • Auschwitz – 8-4 (free), English film at 11 and 1 (3.5zl), 3.5hr tour 26zl (film and bus incl.) - check with the local tourism office for schedules. Taking a taxi or car service is another option, but will be expensive.
Food
  • Many rest, cafes near Rynek Glowney or the train stations
  • Taco Mexicano - Texmex near off town square - entrance is tricky, you'll actually go downstairs for the restaurant.
  • Restaurant Szara - Rynek Glowny 6,
  • Bagelmama – bagels and burritos. Cash only. Podbrzezie 2
  • Kuchina U Babci Maliny – Szpitalna 38 Polish food
  • Dym – café/bar with food – Tomasza 13 cash only
  • Fabryka Pizza – jozefa 34 – funky pizza
  • Bar Mlieczny Pod Temida – Grodzka 43
  • Restauracja pod Aniolami – grodzka 35, reservations rec.
  • Polski Smaki – tomasza 5 – milk bar
  • Someplace Else Bar - pub grub in 1st floor of Sheraton - lots of tvs if you are looking to watch sports.
  • Restauracja Farina – marka 16, fish
  • Miod Malina – grodzka – polish and Italian
  • Pizza spots – Cyklop (near st. mary’s), Trzy Papryczki
  • Bar Grodzki – milk bar with english menu
  • Restauracja Redolfi – great view, French food
  • Bars – Jazz spots: U Muniaka, Harris Piano Jazz Bar, Alchemia, Prozak, Frantic, Propaganda, check out jazz
Shopping – amber and pottery, found in regions well outside of Krakow
  • Cloth Hall – souvenirs, 9-18, watch for pickpockets
  • Pasaz 13 – hip mall, 9-21:00

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Budapest, Hungary

Money – FT is currency, approx 175ft = 1USD as of Nov 2007. When tipping: typically 10% expected. Cabs expect 10%.

Transportation

  • Taxis – 10% tip. Call ahead. Check for meters and agree on price
  • Metro – extremely easy, stamp pass everytime or risk fines (frequently check tourists)
  • Rail Europe recommends 3 day transport pass if you are heavy into tourism
Orientation - Buda west of river, Pest east of River(Danube) Everything is in zones (roman numerals) similar to Paris. When looking at a map, Budapest looks huge. If you are centrally located just about everything is walkable (weather permitting). The metro is pretty easy to get around.

Lodging: stay in Pest (close to the river). Near the main train station - less then ideal.
  • Leo Panzio - Panzio - recommended from a fellow traveler - approx $100/night - good location and cozy inside.
  • Le Meridien Hotel - great location, expensive
  • Kempinski Hotel - great location, but expensive
Attractions
Buda
  • Castle Hill and labyrinths – take time to walk around here. The labyrinths were not worth going in and spending the money. Take a second to walk down to the entrance, you'll get the gist without paying for it.
  • Royal Palace - great views of Pest from here
  • Matthias Church 600ft - very old interesting architecture, lots of history here.
  • Gallert Hill – Liberation Monument
  • Gellert Baths (single sex rooms) 3ooo ft entrance, 2400 ft massage - keep receipt for deposit refund
  • Citadela 300 ft, great views of city, especially at dark
  • Faust Wine Cellar – 16-23daily 13th C Domin. Cloisters w/ wine by glass
  • Fortuna Passage - Cave Church (free)
Pest
  • Opera House - (3pm, 4pm Eng tours) 2500ft, can get cheap tix for show from box office
  • Parliament (go early) and check hours with hotel approx 2300ft
  • Szechenyi Baths - Hungarian tradition, 2000ft, keep receipt for your deposit.
  • Great Synagogue 600ft - largest synagogue in Europe.
  • St Stephens Basilica - free and panorama tower 500ft - only go up on a clear day. You'll find better views from the top of Buda.
  • House of Terror (WW2) check hours, approximately 1500ft, long audioguide but each room will have printouts of the exhibit. This is an excellent museum despite the subject matter.
  • City Park - head north from centrum on Andrassy ut
Food – spicy, paprika is major spice here and worth trying and picking up. Grab a Budapest Menu from your hotel (free) for locations and other ideas then below.
  • Menza - great restaurant in trendy area (Liszt Ferenc Ter), outdoor seating available weather permitting.
  • Iguana - TexMex restaurant packed with ex-pats and you'll see why after tasting the food here. In Pest near the TV headquarters close to Parliament.
  • Fatal (Pest) – large portions
  • Nagyi Palacsintazoja (Buda) crepes
  • Gundel (City ParkPest)
  • Ezustponty - XII
  • Firkasz XIII
  • Kacsa Veneglo -
  • Pink Cadillac - good pizza spot, free wireless (IX - Raday 22)
  • Cafes are a big part of the scene:
    • Cha Cha Cha (Kalvin Ter Pest) free wifi,
    • Gerbeaud (Zone V Pest) cake and ice cream - old institution in Budapest (Vorgemarty Ter)
    • Augustuszt (Feny St.), Muvesz Kavehaz (near opera) Ruszwon Cukrazda (castle)
    • Central Kavehaz (v Karolyi Mihaly) - great spot for breakfast or a coffee. Lots of history here.
  • Bars
Shopping
  • Grand Market Hall - CLOSED SUN - Opens at 6am, closes various hours throughout the week. Locals shop for food here. Pick up local produce/meat or souvenirs hear
  • Vaci Utca – very touristy, pricy, don’t eat here. Good peoplewatching and arch. – look for courtyards and galleries around here (Parisi Udvar)
  • Other shopping regions: Castle district, Kossuth Lajos utca, Vali Folklor, Zsolnay Markabolt @ Duno Plaza), Kozponti Vasresarnok
  • Known for Porcelain (Herend and Zsolnay brands)
  • Herend - this is one of the two major porcelain brands in Hungary. You can find a store in three spots you'll likely pass throughout your travels - Andrassy Ut 16, Vaci Utca or the Airport.
  • Folkart Centrum - you'll find this on the touristy Vaci Utca strip, but it had good local products (crafts, embroidery, cloth, etc) inside of it.

Monday, November 12, 2007

Dusseldorf, Germany

TRANSPORTATION:
  • Use the RE 1 or RE 5 for easy train rides to Cologne.
  • For airport transfer try the S13 or RE8 (10-15 minutes)
CONVENTIONS:
SHOPPING:
  • Stroll down the Konigs Allee for high end shops and streams in between.

Cologne, Germany

ORIENTATION: walking around near the Dom and Bahnhof is quite easy. If you are looking to get to the outskirts of town or Dusseldorf use the train system, which is quite simple.  

HOTELS:
  • Best Western - Hotel Koln - Bennoplatz 2 - near the train tracks, but hotel was adequate for a cheap, clean night stay. Food was so-so at the lobby restaurant. Take line 1 or 9 on S Bahn.  To get to Dusseldorf use the RE 1 or RE5.  For Airport transfer try S13 or RE8.
ATTRACTIONS:
  • Dom Cathedral - a must, even if just changing trains at this station. Follow signs out of the bahnhof to Dom - look up and you'll see the shadow. Walking through the church is free and it is beautiful. The tower has limited hours and costs a few euros. Great views on a sunny day. Spend the time to go through this.
  • Christmas Markets - start in mid to late November.  Try them at Neumarket, Frankenwerft, Roncalliplatz
  • Chocolate Museum - allegedly the closest thing to Willy Wonka.  5-10 minute walk south of the Dom on the same side of the river.

Saturday, November 10, 2007

Copenhagen, Denmark

Copenhagen – CHP Card 209kr (24hrs) 439 (72hrs) must buy online 10 days in advance. Cabs were expensive, but seemed to be the quickest way to the airport. This airport is huge and very modern. If you missed out on shopping (for gifts or you), most of the major shops have a presence in this airport and have equivalent prices, but smaller selection. You can take the train from the airport to the central station (approx 15 mins/25kr). A taxi ride takes about the same amount of time.

Lodging:

  • First Hotel Skt. Petri, Krystalgade 22, DK-1172 Copenhagen, +45 3345 9100 - make sure you have the right First Hotel, they have another location in town, closer to the Rathaus. Lobby has excellent design and the rooms were very nice. Your room location is critical here. There is a very shiek bar on the lobby floor that will play rave music until the wee hours. Make sure to ask for a room on an upper floor, away from the elevator. The concierge (Jacob) was very helpful with reservations and recommendations.
  • Hotel Tiffany – T&L recommendation
  • The Square – another recommendation from travel artcles

Attractions:

  • rent a bike rent from City Bike - this is a great way to see the city and how locals travel
  • Kronbourg Castle – 85kr – open 11-15:00
  • Canal tour or water bus – 80-30kr – indoors
  • Amalienbough Palace – 45kr entrance, 650kr tour 11-16, guard chg at 12
  • Christian IV Brewery
  • Round Tower – Tycho Brahe studied here. This is worthwhile as it offeres great views of Copenhagen and also has rotating art displays in the former living quarters. 25kr each.
  • Carlsberg Brewery - 40kr, 10-16pm - excellent tour although not that easy to find (Carlsberg complex is huge). Ends up in the Jacobsen Brewhouse where you'll get to try some of the recent brews. Ask the bartenders if they have any special or seasonal brews.
  • Sea Forts - staged around town by the river
  • Roskilde – World Heritage – 35 mins W of Copenhagen
  • T&L Recs – Loppen & Valdemars Slot
  • Day trip to Mon – hiking and biking?
  • Christiansbourg Palace 930-1530 closed W, 60kr
  • Radhaus Views and clock 30kr, 10 or 15 tour
  • Rosenborg Castle 65kr 11-14 for palace jewels, situated in the King's Garden's
  • Dansk Design Center - spend time here to see some great Danish design. If you only have a couple minutes stop by the bookstore.
  • State Museum for Kunst - large museum with great collections, open 10-17, Salvgade 48-50
  • Glyptoteket - large art collections, beautiful building - 10-16, Dantes Plads 7

Food – osmoorrebrod and herring are specialties

  • Viva - Langebrogade Kaj 570 - on a houseboat - good local food (mainly fish) with a nice view. Tricky to find but it is very close to the Langebrogade bridge, right on the water.
  • Bubble - Gothersgade 35 - Seafood - new trendy restaurant - call ahead but very good and worth booking here.
  • Halifax - Frederihsborggade 35 - classic burger joint
  • Spiseloppen – 43 Badmandsstraede - in Christiania
  • Manefiskeren – 43 Badmandsstraede - in Christiania
  • Morgenstedet – 134 Fabriksomradet - in Christiania
  • Woodstock Café – Coffee Spot – Pusher St. - in Christiania
  • Café Neumoland – lunch – Pusher St. - in Christiania
  • Israel Plods Market - fruits, veggies, flowers in this local market
  • Kviids vinstue – Copenhagens Oldest Pub
  • Nightlife – Norrebro and Veterbro areas, Vega (local rec), Moose Bar, Park, Rust, Aok.dk, Det Little Apotek
  • Nyhaven 17 – old restaurant/pub
  • Slotskaelderen – Hos gitte Kik
  • Bof & Ost – French and Danish food, cheap
  • La Crevette – seafood (reservations required)
  • Cafes - Robert's Coffee - excellent spot to hangout to get some local flavor. Cool decor.

Shopping

  • Great Christmas Markets
  • Magasiu Department Store - fashion, perfume, makeup, deli, books, wine, etc.
  • The House - design and furniture shop tucked in sidestreets. Very cool Danish decor.
  • Galleri K - newly renovated arcade of high fashion stores: Pilestrade, Antouigade, Brennenholm
  • Krouprinseugade - great Danish stores with trendy clothes/shoes
  • Stroget – fancy shops and budget farther down, also restaurants
  • Norrebo – hot spot for new artists/designers – chance to mingle
  • Nyhavn – shops & cafes
  • Illum Danish Design
  • Sweater Market
  • Det Bla Pahaus – Flea Mkt 15kr
  • Royalshopping.com,
  • Holemguard (crystal)
  • Illums Bolighus
  • Royal Copenhagen Porcelain
  • Georg Jensen (gold/silver Danish jewelry)

Friday, November 9, 2007

Aarhus, Denmark

ORIENTATION – Aarhus pass (trans and museums) if you plan on seeing everything, also bike rental spots (best way to get around, but there are hills). The airport is about 45 minutes from Aarhus.

Lodging:

  • Helnan Marselis Hotel Strandvejen 25, 8000 Aarhus C +45 8614 4411 - this location is not central, but a short cab ride back to town. All rooms appear to have sea views, which are outstanding. Hotel was going through extensive renovations (Nov 2007), so check on that before booking. Excellent rooms, views. Good breakfast downstairs, as well as a small pub serving local ales.

Attractions:

    • Arhusk Domkirke – tallest cathedral in Denmark 10-15:00 free, hours for tower were unreliable.
    • Biking – free or rentals available
    • Kunstmuseum – looks like a local art spot
    • Ny museet – Aarhus local museum – cool shop along river
    • Latin Quarter – Barberen is a old style barber shop, worth strolling by.
    • Dem Gamle By – old town of Aarhus, old architecture and shops.
    • Radhuset - cool views
    • College – 40k students here, university is up the hill
    • Live Music - locals and the guide books say this is a good way to see the city.

Food

    • Baresso – coffee spot near Latin Quarter - very busy at all hours - socializing and business being done from all walks of life.
    • Seafood – near pier, came recommended from locals
    • Krogen I Kroden
    • Teater Bodega
    • Prins Ferdninand
    • Drinks: Castenskiold (order Royal Mojito), Train, Kupe

Shopping

    • Latin Quarter - Bloomers, Georg Jensen, Forimens Bagleaens, Malling Schmidt, Koch Lynfabrikk, Restaurant Koch

Monday, November 5, 2007

Lulea, Sweden

Transportation: from the airport take a taxi into town - try dialing 0920-66666 for Sevans Taxi or 0920-10000 for Lulea Taxi. You'll want to use taxi most of the time, but bus and rail are options locally depending on where you are trying to go.

Lodging:

  • Elite Stadshotellet - Storgatan 15, 972 32 Luleå - +46 (0)920-27 40 00 - good location, central to town square. Italian restaurant downstairs. Ask for a room with a water view. The hotel is about a 15 minute cab ride from the airport.

Attractions: click here for the local tourism info

  • Gammelstad Church Town – World Heritage Site (check hours) – worth seeing, especially on a blue sky day or with snow on the ground. Great picture opportunities. Original town of Lulea was based here.
  • Kulturhaus – a town center building with library, tourist info, conference center and restaurants. Great spot catching a local or two in action. If you are into design or architecture, this is worth investigating.
  • Boat tours
  • Bike tours
  • Nederlulea

Food: click here for Lulea's restaurant index

  • Not many options, one recommendation was the restaurant in Gammelstad.
  • Roasters - good coffees spot with wifi on main square

Sunday, November 4, 2007

Stockholm, Sweden

ORIENTATION – Stockholm Card 290/420/520 all trans and museums – Airport Shuttle to Hotels or Arlanda Express train (very easy, similar to the Heathrow Express 20 mins to downtown) which costs 140kr and will take about 20 mins (taxi will cost 400-600kr).

Lodging:

  • Hotel Diplomat - Strandvägen 7c, 104 40 Stockholm - +46 8 459 6801 - great location, right on the water. Service and the restaurant (breakfast) were very good. Nice quiet lounge on 1st floor. Massages are available through front desk.
  • Berns Hotel - written up recently

Attractions - Stockholm's official website has good info on exhibits/hours

  • T-bana, hundreds of artists along a stretch
  • Walking tour – one in the Lets Go Book about 4 hours
  • Kungliga Slottet – Royal Palace - each at 90kr 12-15:00 – have a changing of the guard around 1:15. Can see guards in action at other times.
  • Nobelmuseet – 11-19pm 60kr
  • Stadshuet – Tower and tour – 10 or 12 – 60 kr
  • Arkitekturmuseet – cool museum with various exhibits. Connected to Modern Art Museum. Architecture is 50kr.
  • Design Shops - these are all over town, but did not meet expectations
  • Kulturhuset – cafes, library and people's center – worth walking through to see if there are any interesting exhibits if you are looking for local art. Great spot to read/hang out if you are looking for a local spot.

Food – prices are lowest at lunch, to save money

  • Café Opera - in back of the Opera House - extensive, lavish renovation recently completed
  • Riche – was packed everytime we went by. Reservations required
  • Koh Phangan – Thai
  • Chokladkoppen – light meals and bid desserts – people watching
  • Café Svenitappare – sandwiches, looks like 17th C shop
  • Kofi – café and sandwiches – great spot, always packed anytime of day. Get a blanket and sit outside
  • Stockfleths - coffee spot
  • Gotgatan, Folkunggatan – affordable
  • Sodermalm area – café and club scenes
  • Grand Hotel - new design highlighted in Travel & Leisure
  • Bakfickan - local Swedish spot
  • Bon Lloc - top restaurant
  • Divinio - Tuscan influences

Drinks: most of these were written up in travel articles

  • Laroy (might be cover)
  • White Room
  • Sturecompaniet Kungsgatan and Stureplan areas
  • Sodermalms night life
  • Debasser – live music
  • The Lab – down to earth
  • Brodoerna Olssons
  • Garlic and Shots
  • Spy Bar - same owner as The Lab
  • Ice Bar – expensive and somewhat touristy, but much cheaper then the Ice Hotel! Located in the Nordic Sea Hotel.
  • Daily News Cafe - pub
  • Sturehof
  • Blue Moon Bar

Shopping

  • Drottningg
  • Fruit Market – 7-18 at Hotorget
  • Kungshallen – food market 11-11
  • Saluhall – 9:30-4
  • Vasterlanggatan – Old Town Gamla Stan – Old Town
  • Stortorget
  • Hammagaton
  • Blas & Knada - pottery
  • Design Torget - in Kulturehusset
  • Ostermams Saluhall - markets and local food
  • Svensk Hemslojd - crafts
  • Motiv - Photography gallery with Swedish b&w prints - they have an airport location
  • Nordiska Galleriet - Swedish furniture
  • Svenskt Tenn - Swedish furniture
  • Galleri Gunnrummet - local painting

Thursday, November 1, 2007

Trondheim, Norway

LODGING:

  • Hotel Scandic Solsiden - Beddingen 1, 7014 Trondheim Norway +47 21 61 46 00 - hotel is very centrally located, which is probably its best feature. You'll get free wifi here. Expect thin walls and not much comfort in your bed.

Attractions: for tourism info, click on Trondheim's Official Site

  • Tyholt Tower – looks like a modern tower, might be good views on a clear day.
  • Nidaros Cathedral – 11th Cent, reduced hours in winter – check website - approx. 50kr includes archbishop tour (adjacent) – beautiful inside chuch. Fee was waived in Nov.
  • Kristiansten Festning – park/picnic spot with cool views
  • Archbishop Palace – part of Nidaros Cathedral – grounds free, but museum and armory have a fee - see link above for info.
  • Rent Bikes and take famous bike lift up the hill - check with hotel for "free bikes in town"
  • Be sure to get a view of the bay (past the train station). A good spot for views are the Erik Statue.
  • Roros Mining Town UNESCO site south
  • Vega Archipelego – North UNESCO
  • University - you'll notice immediately that youth permeates through Trondheim. Check out the student scene by finding the campuses or local cafes/bars.

Food

  • Den Gode Nabo – riverside spot with good fish, also a pub after dinner
  • Ramp – student hangout and cheap eats –
  • Studentersamfundet – café with cheap food and beer next to rail station
  • Café Bare Blaber – burgers and pizza – local spot that was absolutely packed. Food was pretty good and “relatively cheap).
  • Brattorgata district – restaurants, clubs and bars
  • Carl Johans Gate and Nordre Gate – food and nightlife
  • Solsiden district – popular restaurants and lounges

Shopping

  • Old Distrct Near Gamle Bybro