Saturday, December 29, 2007

Florence, Italy

Orientation - Train ticket office is open 7-19 – very walkable city – expensive taxis (use Radio Taxi) -

HOTELS:

  • JK Place - Piazza S.M. Novella, 7, Florence, 50123 - +39-055-2645181 – one of the better hotels we stayed at in Italy. Service was first class and the rooms, despite small size were outstanding. Seating lounges on ground floor make it feel like you are in a livign room. Excellent location - close to train station, but away from crowds. DIRECTIONS: located 6 mins on foot from Santa Maria Novella train station...get out from the main exit (nearby the pharmacy) and look right...you will see the back of a church...go towards the church crossing the square (mind the cars) and take the Via degli Avelli ( pedestrian area ). Walk for 1 minute and look left, we are next to the hotel Roma.
  • Riva Lofts - hotel was in the "outskirts of town" which kept us away. Staff was extremely responsive over internet inquiries and the website looks great.

ATTRACTIONS:

  • These links and phone numbers can help with reservations. http://www.weekendafirenze.it/ or http://www.florenceart.it/ 055-294-883
  • Uffizi (Tu-Sa 8:15-19) advanced reservations (see above). Large museum and you'll see: Botticelli, da Vinci, Michaelangelo and Raphael to name a few.
  • Galleria dell Academia – David, Tu-Su, 8:15-19, 7E (see above). Go early and make a reservation to avoid lines.
  • Piazza della Signoria - main square, check out sculptures next to Uffizi
  • Baptistery (San Giovanni) – M-Sa, 12-19, 4E - make sure to look at the door facing Duomo
  • Bargello National Museum – 8:15-13:50 (M-F), 8:15-18 (Sa), 4E - sculptures are amazing
  • Basicila San Lorenzo – M-Sa (10-17:30), free
  • Basilica Santa Maria Novella – church (M-Th 9-17, F & Su 13-17) 3E, cloisters (closed F, 8-14), 3E
  • Duomo – museum (M-Sa 9-19:30), 6E – catherdral (Th or Sa, 10-15:30), free - climb the tower, but go early as it is very tight space walking around.
  • Ponte Vecchio bridge - go early to avoid crowds
  • Medici Chapels – (M-Sa 8:15-17), 6E
  • Palazzo Pitti (Boboli Gardens) – Daily 8:30-1:30 5E, Gardens 9-17:45
  • Piazza Michaelangelo – great overlook of Florence and sunsets
  • Santa Croce -
  • San Marco – (T-F no M, 8:30-13:50 – S&S, 8:15-19) 6E - don’t just go in the church, go through the museum that is off to the right of the church. There is an upstairs part to the museum that are the old monks quarters; you can walk around and see frescoes in all the rooms where the monks lived
  • Fort Belevedere - UNESCO World Heritage Sight. Close to Boboli Gardens.

FOOD:

  • Gelato – pay for gelato first, picking size. Hand receipt to scooper and pick your flavor. Banana color (if grey, likely with fresh fruit). Steel bins (vs plastic) usually means homemade. Vivoli & Gelateria dei Neri (Via Dei Neri) are recommended.
  • Buca Mario - recommendation from JK Place. Can get noisy, but very solid cuisine and excellent service.
  • Garga - Via del Moro - have the garga salad and the cheesecake - a great choice.
  • Quattro Leone (lunch or dinner) - Piazza della Passera/Via Toscanella - have the mozzarella di buffola e tomato salad and fiocchetti (sp?) with pears and asparagus
  • Mariano (quick lunch) - Via Parione, 19 (it is in a basement)
  • Procacci (afternoon snack) - Via Tornabuoni
  • Giacosa (breakfast/quick lunch) - Via della Spada, part of Cavalli off of Via Tornabuoni. Order the Pomodoro Soup. They also have wifi here.
  • Il Latini - rec from a friend
  • La Giostra (dinner, classic tuscan cuisine) near the duomo.
  • Osteria Santo Spirito (lunch or dinner) - Piazza Santo Spirito
  • Aqua al Due - highly recommended
  • Da Pennello – address: Via Dante Alighieri - great food and service
  • Tratorria da Benvenuto – V. dei Neri, 47r, squid risotto

Shopping

  • The Mall - http://www.outlet-firenze.com/ - The Mall is one of the best outlets outside of Florence - it's approximately 45 minutes outside of Florence in a town called Leccio. This is truly an outlet mall where you have last seasons' fashions and accessories at 40% (or more) less than retail stores. There are also classic pieces that can be found at the stores. The stores include: Gucci, Tod's, Armani, AX Jeans, Ferragamo, Fendi, Burberry, Balenciega, etc. To get there, you can choose one of 4 options: (1) Caftours.com (2) SITA bus from the main bus station in Florence provides scheduled times to/from the Mall (cost: 4-Euro pp each way) (3) Special bus info@design-management.it (cost: 25-Euros pp, minimum 2 pp) (4) take train to Rignano Sull' Arno and then, a taxi to the Mall
  • Via Tornabuoni is the main shopping area and all the streets near by. For fun handbags that are inexpensive go to Temporary Store - Via della Vigna Nuova (near Via Tornabuoni).
  • Luisa Via Roma (near the Piazza del Duomo).
  • Piazza D. Mercato Centrale – open air market close no too far from the Duomo, Piazza della Repubblica

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Venice, Italy

ORIENTATION: make sure to arrive to Santa Maria Lucia station, not the first Venice stop (Maestre). Typically you'll want to use the Vaparetto (water bus run by ACTV - they have 1 and 3 day tickets 10E, 22E) or your legs to get around. Water taxis and gondolas are extremely expensive and likely to leave you frustrated. Walking can be very confusing, but yellow signs help with famous sights. Vaporetto is the way to go for transports (ACTV is the company). Water Taxi is about 60E. Gondola very expensive negiotiate beforehand – 100E/HR is about the rate. Trahetti (ferry).

Hotels:

Novecento - San Marco, 2683/84, 30124 VENEZIA - 041 2413765 - This is a great little boutique hotel. Old antique furnishing, but modern bathrooms, etc. Very clean and a great location (5 min walk from San Marco Square). Extremely quiet and a great staff. Directions: Take Vaparetto Line 1 getting off at Santa Maria Del Giglio (or Giglio). Take the walkway straight ahead to the square. Just before you get to the church straight ahead, take the stairs to the left. Veer to the right and continue up the stairs. Follow to the next courtyard. Novecento is on the far walkway on the lefthand side across the walkway. http://www.novecento.biz/dynalay.asp?PAGINA=45&navigazione_principale=2

La Calcina - recommended from a travel magazine under "cheap weekends"

Attractions – if you are really into sightseeing, then get a Chorus Pass for all churches in Venezia

  • St. Marks Square – sunrise is supposed to be beautiful in the square. Watch in amazement as tourists feed pigeons climbing all over them.
  • Ca d Oro – M (8-14), others 8:15-19:15, 5E – Cannaregio district -
  • Campinile di San Marco – 9:30-16:15, 6E great views, you'll go up via the elevator
  • Ca Rezzonico – 10-17 (no Tues), 6.5E - 19th century Venetian life
  • Collezion Guggenhiem – 10-18 (no Tues), 10E – in the Dorsoduro area
  • San Marco– (10-16:30), Sun (14-16) 2-6E
  • Doge's Palace & Bridge of Sighs – (9-17), 11E – staircase worthwhile – in the San Marco area - try the secret itineraries tour
  • Gall Dell Accademia - (M 8-14, 8-19 other) 6.5E – in the Dorsoduro area - largest collection of Venetian art in the world.
  • Musueo Civico Corner (9-5), 11E
  • Scuola di Schiavoni (no M, 10-12:30 & 15-18), 3E – Castello district
  • Scuola di San Rocco (only S or M), 7:30-12:30 (& 2-4 Sun), 6E – in the San Polo area
  • Trip to Pauda? University town
  • Grand Canal - #1, 4 and 82 have great nighttime façade views
  • Churches – San Zaccaria 10-12,16-18 free
  • Islands – Lido (good beach), Murano (known for glass),

Food

  • al Paradiso Ristorante - excellent spot near the Rialto (but off the tourist stops). Closest Vaparetto stop is Papadopoli. Excellent seafood/pasta. Calle de Paradiso
  • Il Prato - Calle de Ostreghe - http://www.ilpratovenezia.com/ - looks like they also have a Las Vegas restaurant
  • Al Ponte di Rialto- great pizza (by the slice), off the Grand Canal (SW of the Rialto Bridge). Grab a slice and go!
  • Café Florian - famous spot, but you'll pay for the history!
  • Quaddry’s
  • Nuovo Galeon - Venetian cuisine
  • Harry’s (famous Hemingway bar) - world famous bellinis
  • La Colombina - just off Strada Nuova in Cannaregio
  • Imagina - spritz hour bar recommended from cheap travel magazine
  • Cantina do Spade (cicchetti)
  • Le Bistrot de Venise, Gelateria Nico

Shopping

  • Pauly & Co. - Venetian Glass
  • Venini - Venitian Glass
  • Rivoaltus Legatoria - leather journals sold on Rialto Bridge
  • Rialto - bridge and market area has local merchants

Sunday, December 23, 2007

Milan, Italy

Orientation – rings around the city – very walkable – tram, bus or metro goes from central station to town center. Milan is shaped like a bullseye – inner circle has 4 squares: Piazza del Duomo, Castello, Cordusio, San Babila. Behind train station it can be a little shady at night. If you are confident that you know where to go then walk from there. The metro is very safe and will run about 1 Euro/ride. If not catch a taxi at the stand - follow signs.

Hotels:

  • Jolly Hotel Milano President - Largo Augusto, 10, Milan - +39 02 77461 central location (close to Duomo). At the end of 2007 they were redoing rooms. Clean and reliable, but nothing too fancy. Lobby area is a nice sitting area. Directions - By train: From the central station, take the underground (yellow line) until the Missori stop. Alternatively you can catch bus 60 and get off at the Vittoria-Augusto stop. It´s also possible to catch a taxi
  • Hotel Principie - came highly recommended from a high end travel agent. About a 5-10 minute walk towards town center from the Milano Central train station.
  • 3 Rooms - on the Corso Como, tucked back in a courtyard
  • Carlton Hotel Baglioni - travel mag recommendation

Attractions

  • La Scala Opera – Recently renovated. Tickets sold in the Duomo Metro station.
  • Duomo – cathedral (7-19, free) and roof (9-16:30, 6E) – third largest church in the world, roof views of alps
  • Last Supper – in the Santa Maria Dell Grazie, reservations DEFINITELY required (8-19, 7E + res fee) - as soon as you know your going to Milan book this reservation.
  • Ambriosiana – 10-17:30, 7.5E – check out statue filled courtyard
  • Brera Picture Gallery – 8:30-19, 5E
  • Basilica Di Sant’Amrbogio – Medieval bldg. – M-Sa (7-12, 14:30-19) & Su (7:15-13, 15-20) free, chapel different hrs
  • Basilica Di Sant Eustorgio – old frescoes – basilica (free) and capella (6E) 8:30-12, 15:30-18, Su 10-18:30
  • Museo Bagatti on Via Santo Spirito (off of Montenepoleone) it is the house the eponymous family lived in
  • Sforza Castle - north part of city at the beginning of the park

Food

  • Al Porto – guide book rec - seafood
  • Cracco Peck - guide book rec "very gourmet"-
  • Cafés: Berlin Café, Botega Caffe Cocao (hot chocolate) & Café Cova
  • Bagutta - the murals are all from famous painters (via bagutta-parallel street to montenapoleone) -
  • Torre di Pisa - rec for lunch in Brera
  • Da Giacomo - outstanding. fried zucchini blossoms come recommeneded.
  • La Langhe (on Corso Como)
  • La Briciola-in Brera
  • Quatro Cento (outside of the center of Milan, but a very cool restaurant)
  • Trattoria Milanese - rec from a friend
  • Bulgari hotel - good drink spot
  • Bice - Via Borgospesso - travel mag rec.
  • Nobu - travel mag rec for a drink - Via Pisoni
  • DO NOT EAT at Bar Si (Galleria V Emanuele II). Very high priced drinks and we saw locals screaming at the staff here for outrageous prices.

Shopping – Saldi (means sales, famous in Jan.), blochista (means outlets) -

  • Via Montenapoleone – all desinger shops and side streets have boutiques
  • Golden Triangle, Corso de Beunos Aires (affordable), Piazza Oberdan (cheap),
  • Brera (bargains) - cool neighborhood
  • Vias: Solferron, Madonnia, Fiori Chiari, Monte Napoleon, Satn Andrea, Torino - Corso di Porta Ticinese,
  • Outlets: Il Salvagente and Gruppo Italia Grandi Firme
  • Bargains: Via Fauce & Viale Papina
  • 10 Corso Como - (the name of the Shop and the street it is on-it's tucked away in a courtyard- great store (upstairs there is an art exhibit, music and books) good restaurant recommended for lunch. Open on Sundays.
  • Mr. N - unique gifts
  • Galleria V Emanuele II - amazing architecture and a few designer shops - near Duomo and La Scala.
  • Marni's flagship - (via Spiga), they also have an outlet (Via Tajani Filippo)
  • Il Salvagente - Via Fratelli Bronzetti -

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Paris, France

Money

  • euro is currency, Exchange – 146 E = 100USD, 100 E = $68 (Dec 2007)
  • Tipping:, service is usually included (service compris) but leave small change for good service – if no service included tip 15-20%, 12-15% for cabs, 1E for each bag at hotels & 1E/day for maid, when in doubt tip (cloak rooms, WCs)
Transportation
  • Taxis – 12-15 % tip. Bags in trunk may be extra. Very difficult in rush hour
  • Metro – can by a block of tickets 10, cheapest way to go (called a carnet)
Orientation - quadrant system, called arrondissements. Right bank is north of the river, left is south.

Lodging:
  • Edouard VII - nice hotel with great service. Very close to the Opera House. Excellent location for seeing sights in Paris.
  • Hotel de Grandes Ecoles - 75 rue Cardinal Lemoine - travel article rec
  • Meurice - 228 rue de rivoli - location right by the Louvre
Attractions
  • Versailles – Chateau 1 November - 31 March, 9am to 5.30pm, last admission: 5pm – CLOSED M; The Marie-Antoinette's Estate and the Grand Trianon 12-530, about 7-16E, 25E total pass, By train: the nearest station is Versailles Rive Gauche on Line C of the RER; the Palace is an 8-minute walk away.
  • Latin Quarter – getting more touristy - has Sorbonne University in it – 5th Arr,
  • NotreDame – 745-19 daily (7.5E), towers 10-1730, treasury 930-6 M-F (3E), crypt 10-6 (closed M) free
  • Ste Chappelle – near Notre Dame, 9-5 daily, cost with Concierge and one other building
  • 5th Q – Sorbonne and Pantheon 10-1830
  • Eifell – 930-2300, (3-11E)
  • Arc de Triumph – view at top 10-2230 (8E)
  • Catacombs – closed M, 10-16, (5E)
  • Louvre – closed Sun & Tues, open 9-6 (8.5E)
  • Musee d Orsay – closed Sun & Mon, 9:30-6 (7E)·
Food –
  • Resa au Drouant - 16-18 Gaillon - relatively new restaurant - excellent tastes here with superb service. Very close to the Opera House.
  • L'Astrance - recommended in travel articles, closed Sundays
  • Le Colimacon - good food, poor service
  • Angelina - 226 Rue de Rivoli 1st Arr - great Parisian breakfast - also a location in the 17th
  • Allard (reserve rec for lunch) – Left Bank – French bistro;
  • Au Boeuf Couronne ( off the beaten path) 8 rue laplace;
  • Le Meruice – prix fixe 2 michelin chefs – 228 rue de rivoli ;
  • La Petite Hostelleri – 35 rue de la harpe – mussels are good;
  • Bar Hemingway, hotel ritz, 15 place Vendome
  • 1st/2nd – Le Carre Blanc. Les Noves de Jeannette;
  • 7th/8th – Mood (japan –fusion);
  • Berthillion and Amorino for desserts;
  • Brasserie Balzar – 49 rue des ecoles

  • Cafes
    • Delicabar (26–38 Rue de Sèvres, 7th) sits in dept store;
    • Café du Marche 66, Rue Curial;
    • L’Assiette 181, Rue du Château 75014;
  • Bakeries -
    • http://www.leboulangerdemonge.com/ - 123 Rue Monge – 5th – closed M;
    • Maison Kayser -8, rue Monge V - 14 rue Monge - 87, rue d'Assas Vie - 79, rue du Commerce XVe - 49, rue Linois XVe - 87, Rue Didot XIVe;
    • Poilane;
    • Maison Gosselin - Rue de Verrüe St Vaast La Hougue;
    • GANA CHAUD. - 226, rue des Pyrénnées;
    • LE MOULIN DE LA VIERGE;
    • Pain d’epis - 63 avenue Bosquet – VIIème;
    • Ma Bourgogne – Place des Vosges - order the hot chocolate
SHOPPING








  • Sunday flea market – March eau puces – café nearby;
  • Le Louvre des Anitquaries – antiques near Louvre;
  • Viaduc des Artes – 12th district, collection of artists and crafts;
  • Baccarat, Lalique, L Tuile a Loup (5th) pottery and crafts, Au Printemps, Anna Lowe, Fauchon, Catherine
  • Camille Fournet - boutique
  • L'Eclaireur - 10, rue herold, boutique
  • Colette - 213 rue saint honore
  • Ornements - jewelery rec from travel magazine - 96 rue de grenelle
  • Loxwood - boutique fashion - 14 rud du Cherche Midi
ARTICLES OF INTEREST:

Recommendations: Restaurants The Top 10 Places to Eat (Very Expensive)
  • · 1. Lucas Carton - 9 place de la Madeleine, Paris 8th - métro: Madeleine
  • · 2. L'Ambroisie - 9 place des Vosges, Paris 4th - métro: Saint-Paul
  • · 3. Alain Ducasse - 59 av. R. Poincaré, Paris 16th - métro: Victor Hugo
  • · 4. La Tour d'Argent - 17 quai de Tournelle, Paris 5th - métro: Cardinal-Lemoine
  • · 5. Les Ambassadeurs (Hôtel de Crillon) - 10 place de la Concorde, 8th - métro: Concorde
  • · 6. Cercle Ledoyen - Carré des Champs-Elysées, 8th - métro: Concorde o Champs-Elysées
  • · 7. Taillevent - 15 rue Lamennais, Paris 8th - métro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
  • · 8. Guy Savoy - 18 rue Troyon, Paris 17th - métro: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
  • · 9. Le Grand Véfour - 17 rue de Beaujolais, Paris 1st - métro: Palais-Royal
  • · 10. L'Arpège - 84 rue de Varenne, Paris 7th - métro: Varenne
· The Top 10 Places to Eat (Inexpensive)
  • · 1. Chez Clément - 6 addresses in Paris, including: 47 av. de Wagram, Paris 17th - métro: Ternes or 123 av des Champs-Elysées, Paris 8th - métro: George V
  • · 2. Restaurant des Beaux-Arts - 11 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6th - métro: St-Germain-des-Prés
  • · 3. Les Noces de Jeannette - 14 rue Favart, Paris 2nd - métro: Richelieu-Drouot
  • · 4. Le Patio Provençal - 116 rue des Dames, Paris 17th - métro: Villiers
  • · 5. Osteria del Passe-partout - 20 rue de l'Hirondelle, Paris 6th - métro: St-Michel
  • · 7. Dame tartine - 2 rue Brisemiche, Paris 4th - métro: Hôtel-de-Ville or Les Halles
  • · 8. Lescure - 7 rue de Mondovi, Paris 1st - métro: Concorde
  • · 9. Chartier - 7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, Paris 9th - métro: Rue Montmartre

The Top 10 Restaurants with a View
  • · 1. La Tour d'Argent - 17 quai de Tournelle, Paris 5th - métro: Cardinal-Lemoine A very famous address with the best view of Notre-Dame.
  • · 2. Jules Verne - Tour Eiffel (second floor)
  • · 3. La Maison Blanche - 15 av. Montaigne, Paris 8th - métro: Alma Marceau From the rooftop of the Theâtre des Champs-Elysées, nice view over the Seine and the capital.
  • · 6. Altitude 95 - Tour Eiffel (1st floor), Good address, less expensive than the Jules Verne
  • · 7. Morot-Gaudry 6 rue de la Cavalerie, Paris 15th - métro: La Motte-Picquet
  • · 8. Toupary - Samaritaine (5th floor) - 2 quai du Louvre, Paris 1st - métro: Pont-Neuf
  • ·
Rick Steves - http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/france/parisitin.htm

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Prague, Czech Republic

MONEY:

  • Kroner is currency
  • Exchange – 18Ckr = 1USD, 1 CKr = $0.05 - $100 = 1800 CKr as of Nov 2007
  • Tipping: round up to the nearest few crowns, about 10% for rest at fancier spots, 10% for cabs, not necessary for hotels, a little bit in hotels is ok
TRANSPORTATION:
  • Taxis –10 % tip. Reserve in advance for airport and negotiate beforehand. AAA Taxi - 14 0 14/ 2211 0 2211/ 729 33 11 33 - dispatchers speak English
  • Walking around town is very easy and recommended
Orientation:

Lodging:
Attractions
  • Prague Castle – Prazsky Hrad: St. Vitus Cathedral, Royal Palace, several other attractions on the hill. Grounds are free. Castle open 9-4, gardens closed
  • Jewish Museum – in Jewish Quarter, 9-4:30, 300 Ckr. – Maisel Synagogue, Old Jewish Cemetary, Old New Synagogue – nJosefov – closed Sat.
  • Charles Bridge
  • Old Town Square – Astronomical Clock 8to8 on the hour, Wenceslas Square, Tyn Church 10-13, 15-17Karlstejn Castle – 18 mi south
Food - pork, dumplings, cabbage and beer are local fares. Make sure to ask before you eat what is on table. Restaurants will often charge for bread, nuts, etc on table. Always check bill carefully. Closer to center of town will be more expensive
  • Bohemia Bagel - run by an expat - if you are looking for some familiar food this is your spot. Grab a bagel or sandwich for breakfast or lunch. Great cheesesteak.
  • The Prague Post recently ran a Top Ten Restaurant Guide.
  • Café Restaurant Louvre – coffee, cheap meal – meets and fish are better here
  • Creperie Cafe Gallery Rest. – French, value, foot of Charles Bridge
  • Hergetova Cihelna – good spot with great view, pizza
  • Ponte – international
  • Nostress - Asian fusion - great restaurant in cool area
  • Klub architektu – 12th cent cellar with Czech food,
  • Jachymka – big meat spot, Restaurace u Parlamentu – business lunch spot, Velryba – art gallery with food
  • Il Primo - Italian spot near the Jewish quarter - Elisky Krasnohorske 1, Praha 1 +420 222 320 734
  • Bakeshop Praha - good local bakery /deli . Easy spot for take away or sit down.
  • Cafes – Kavarna Slavia, Milena, Obecni dum, Dahab, Rybka, Ebel
  • Pubs – Do Not wave for service, put a cardboard coster in front of you that you want a mug – U Fleku (famous beer hall), U Zlateho tygra, Vinarna U Sudu – cellars, Duende
Shopping – porcelain, glass, clothes
  • Moser – glass and crystal – Na Prikope 12 or Male nam 11. 10-8 M-F, 10-7 S-
  • Celetna Crystal – Celetna 15, Cristallino - Celetna 12 two stores with glass, crafts
  • Manufaktura - great unique toys and crafts - several stores throughout town.
  • Local Art - check out Galerie chez Annamarie - tucked in a courtyard at Mostecka 14, this is worth a stroll through
Havelsky trk – Havelska ulice, open air market M-F 7-6 local mkt

For some additional information click here.